In the 17th century, working independently, Sir Isaac Newton and Gottfried Leibniz, invented Calculus, “the math of motion and change.” Leibniz published first, but little controversy exits. It is widely accepted that the two both be given credit for the discovery. I mention this because several summers ago, I had a hankering for grilled fish. I went to the store, bought trout, thyme, lemon, yogurt, and horseradish, combined them and declared myself a genius. Weeks later I saw the same dish on the menu at Bottega Café. I want to be clear. I do not believe there to have been any foul play and am convinced that Chef Frank Stitt is capable of discovering such a magnificent blend of flavors entirely on his own. As far as I am concerned, the there is no controversy and the discussion is over.
On to the recipe. For this you need whole, cleaned, trout of any variety but red trout as they are too close to salmon in texture. The tail and head can be cut off or not without consequence. Lightly salt and pepper the cavity of each fish and fill with two round slices of lemon and five or six sprigs of time. Put over medium heat and grill until the skin is crisp and the flesh is firm but still moist, about four minutes a side. In the meantime, grate the horseradish and, a little at a time, stir into plain yogurt until it’s hot enough for you. Chef Stitt uses creme fraiche instead of yogurt, which is okay I suppose. Serve the fish with a big spoon full of horseradish yogurt, enough to have some sauce with each bite of fish, a lightly dressed arugula salad, and a glass of dry riesling.
I resisted putting a pun on the word “fast” in this post, as in “a fast meal for Lent.” You are welcome.